At the base of a moss-covered waterfall, we scramble up 400 feet of slick limestone and wet moss to its source. A large dark grotto forms the entrance to a curious subterranean lake. Headlamps uncover long white stalactite as our boats and paddles slice through inky water. Deep inside, turbulent cascades echo through the dark and forbidding chamber. Eight miles above the confluence, the whitewater begins.

In this C&K feature flipbook, writer Forrest McCarthy and photographer Moe Witschard explore the extraordinary rivers and troubled history of Bosnia.