Last summer, C&K Managing Editor Dave Shively and Staff Photographer Robert Zaleski headed up to Baffin Island to paddle the famed Soper River south to the Hudson Strait. Or so they thought. The stopover to switch planes in the Nunavut capital city of Iqaluit turned into a layover week that put the odd back in odyssey as the pair learned how the rivers of Nunavut—Canada’s newest, biggest, and northernmost territory—have a habit of dishing out lessons one way: when they are ready to.

Read the full story in our May 2012 “North Issue.”