travel

Old Man River

04.29.2004

Paddling down a river in the very early hours of daylight can be a sacred experience. It’s a time when fog clings loosely to the water’s surface, reducing the far bank to a gray form silhouetted beyond the vapors. It’s a time when the humblest of streams or the mightiest of rivers seems to reveal […]

We’re Talkin’ Texas

04.23.2004

As a northerner intent on seeing central Texas’s famed Hill Country from the cockpit of a kayak, I felt like I had to relearn the English language before I reached my destination. It’s not that Texans speak especially poorly or have accents too thick to understand, it’s just that this particular area is notable for […]

Bowron Lake Provincial Park, BC

04.13.2004

As darkness invaded the forest, the haunting cry of a loon shot across Indianpoint Lake and then ricocheted off the mountains. Hairs prickled on the back of my neck. It was my first night in British Columbia’s Bowron Lake Provincial Park. Over the next week, I’d hear the call of the loon frequently. Each time, […]

Milk River, AB

04.13.2004

As if battling a stiff prairie wind and pushy current weren’t difficult enough, we had to outmaneuver a territorial cow smack-dab in the middle of Alberta’s Milk River. “We’re going left … no, right … no, left!” I yelled at my friend Anette. If she hadn’t already focused on the large bovine we were about […]

Teslin River, YT

04.13.2004

The summer-no sweeter was ever; The sunshiny woods all athrill; The grayling aleap in the river, The bighorn asleep on the hill. The strong life that never knows harness; The wilds where the caribou call; The freshness, the freedom, the farness- O God! how I’m stuck on it all. Robert Service “The Spell of the […]

Awe, Canada

03.03.2004

The Slave River ambles slowly northward from Alberta’s Lake Athabasca, milk-chocolate brown with silt picked up as it crosses the Peace-Athabasca Delta. The river proceeds at a leisurely pace toward Great Slave Lake until reaching Fort Fitzgerald, Alberta, where the waters accelerate as they spill off the Canadian Shield. River-running legend has immortalized the stretch […]

Tundra and Taiga

10.31.2003

Bob Schaefer lowered his field glasses and announced, “I don’t see any shore lead. “We trudged off a hill overlooking ice-choked Kamilukuak Lake and back to our canoes at the edge of Nowleye. Being stopped “cold” had not been in the trip planning. Time to talk. Three of us, with collective Canadian wilderness paddling experience […]

Paddling the Primordial

02.24.2003

A roundup of great swamp canoeing and kayaking trips throughout the south, including Everglades, Okefenokee, and the Great Dismal Swamp.

Good Times on the Main Salmon

02.07.2003

An 80-mile, seven-day run down the Main Salmon River gives paddlers postcard scenery, wide-open wave trains, and a Christmas gift that keeps on giving.

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Buyer's Guide

Buyer's Guide