Canoe & Kayak Magazine

Paddling South Carolina's Water Trails

Canoe & Kayak Web Exclusive
words by Bo Petersen
photos by Jim Huff

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Our kayaks slip quietly through the dark river waters following deer as they plunge through the marshy wild rice paddies, into the creek and swim off in search of drier land. We paddle the Palmetto Water Trail which flows down the Cooper River to its end in a cypress pool in the Wadboo Swamp, deep in the heart of South Carolina.

This encounter highlights one of the many reasons for the Berkeley County Blueways, part of South Carolina’s water trails system. The Blueways water trails are a collection of nearly two dozen routes covering 175 miles of miles of live oak, blackwater swamps, reedy streams and cypress lakes in the SE corner of the state. The trails take paddlers through a history that includes rice plantations and Revolutionary War battles. The streams have names like Wadboo, Wambaw and Chicken Creek. (Native American tribal names for waterways often carry a “bo,” “boo” or “baw” sound that translates as “water.”)

Berkeley County is just inland from historic Charleston in South Carolina, in a region of remote waters and abundant wildlife called the Lowcountry. Its waters attract boaters to swamps of dwarf palmetto and alligator-thrashed reeds, live-oak rivers where eagles nest, lakes, wide-open bays and ocean. Kayaking in the Lowcountry is year-round and offers a wealth of wildlife encounters and outdoor adventures.

The Blueways trail system has been a joint effort among the Berkeley County Soil and Water Conservation District, Berkeley County government, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and U.S. Forest Service, the S.C. Office of Coastal Resource Management, and Santee Cooper. Special thanks goes to individuals of the Carolina Gypsy Paddlers who assisted in the survey of each waterway listed and brought to light the value that a paddling trail program would contribute to the recreational opportunities in Berkeley County.

On a mossy November morning, a paddle in Wadboo Swamp travels past cypress knees and dwarf palmetto then down to flooded old rice fields,home to hawks and herons, anhingas, otter, wood ducks and pileated woodpeckers. The trail is one in the system through Berkeley County that range from the remote, owl and feral pig-haunted Wambaw Creek wilderness to cypress stands in open water on Lake Marion.

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Wadboo is one of the Low country’s obscure estuarine nooks — known mostly by fishermen or boaters who ride Tailrace Canal and cruise the creek’s rice-field maze mouth. Few go upstream past the marl and limestone bluff beyond Rembert C. Dennis Landing, where the creek closes into hardwood swamp, and paddlers glide under the tree canopy through dwarf palmetto. The sudden change from grackle-swarmed rice delta to secluded bottomland makes the creek one of the Lowcountry’s unique float experiences.

There are also gators skulking in the blackwater and reeds. Sometimes you can hear their call in the distance -it rumbles like a lion's roar. Unlike their fierce crocodile cousins, American alligators tend to be shy, as wild creatures go. When approached, they usually jump from the bank and go under a little bit at a time until only the eyes show. More than 100,000 alligators now roam the Lowcountry and South Carolina coast.

That's 100,000 more reasons to visit the wilds of South Carolina's Berkeley County Blueways.

For more information on Berkeley County paddles, go to www.berkeleyblueways.com.

Reader Comments
Posted on Fri Aug 8, 2008, 4:58 PM by SC Kayaker
This is a great area but infested with bugs (skeeters) all summer. Try a warm weekend in the winter or early spring for a premium trip. http://www.scguide.org

Posted on Sat Aug 9, 2008, 3:21 PM by Archie T. Thompson
I have paddled Wadboo Creek for the last ten years in all seasons & (skeeters) have never been a problem.

Posted on Thu Mar19, 2009, 11:16 AM by Anonymous
As I know the Blueways water trails are a collection of nearly two dozen routes covering 170+ miles of miles of live oak, blackwater swamps, reedy streams and cypress lakes in the SE corner of the state.

Posted on Thu Mar19, 2009, 11:18 AM by Anonymous
I am pleased to post my comment on this blog. I love your blog by the way, I am gonna have to add you to my list of watched blogs.

Posted on Tue Mar24, 2009, 3:06 AM by Paul Brannan
Alligators are a reason to visit? Are you crazy?

Posted on Sun Apr26, 2009, 11:49 AM by Ron Scrudato
SC Paddlers: I currently paddle a tandem Hobie Oddyssey and a CLC 18 foot Sea kayak as well as a 18 foot canoe. I spend time between Lake Ontario and the waters in and near St. James City Florida paddling and fishing. At the Florida site I am on a canal, about a 3 foot tidal range and getting in and out of the boats is a real challenge to these 60+ year old knees. I have designed and am in the process of building a Kayak Lift-solely for kayaks, canoes and other paddling boats. I am interested in learning whether there is any interest in learning more about the Kayak lift by your members. If so, please return this email address and I will forward the concept and keep you posted on the development of the prototype. RJScrudato, Clemson, 1962

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Posted on Mon Jul13, 2009, 8:51 PM by Linda
gators and snakes no way!!!!

Posted on Wed Oct 7, 2009, 12:05 AM by Scegralge
Hi People How are you doing?

Posted on Wed Feb10, 2010, 1:23 PM by Rodney Vaughan
My wife and I paddled upper Wadboo last fall. We were impressed by the solitude and the beauty of this area. Also a pleasant surprise: we found not one piece of trash! We highly recommend the Wadboo and are sure you will enjoy your journey.

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