Dispatch No. 2 from a 2,600 mile canoe journey across Canada’s Territories.
The silence is eerie. We’ve stopped paddling completely. Watching and waiting. And watching, and waiting. Paddles down, binoculars up. An overhanging branch shakes high on a towering yellow cedar flanking us on shore. A raptor launches over our sea kayaks and heads up the estuary, the flapping of its wings piercing the silence.
Five canoes. Ten people. Twenty-two hours of sunlight. Hundreds of unnamed mountains, rivers, streams, ridges, creeks, meadows, and vistas. Two grizzlies running the other way. Billions of diabolical mosquitoes that, fortunately, stay in the dense shrubbery until evening. An infinite number of surprises. One vast and empty wilderness, devoid of humans. This is a crash [...]
As darkness invaded the forest, the haunting cry of a loon shot across Indianpoint Lake and then ricocheted off the mountains. Hairs prickled on the back of my neck. It was my first night in British Columbia’s Bowron Lake Provincial Park. Over the next week, I’d hear the call of the loon frequently. Each time, [...]
As if battling a stiff prairie wind and pushy current weren’t difficult enough, we had to outmaneuver a territorial cow smack-dab in the middle of Alberta’s Milk River. “We’re going left … no, right … no, left!” I yelled at my friend Anette. If she hadn’t already focused on the large bovine we were about [...]